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A mix of French impressions and Buddhist ideologies, Luang Prabang
promises a rejuvenating getaway.
No visit to Laos (its official name is Lao People’s
Democratic Republic) can be complete without a visit to Luang
Prabang, which was the capital of Laos for many years till the
Pathet Lao dismantled the monarchy and shifted the capital to
Vientiane. It is a sleepy little town near the confluence of rivers
Mekong and Nam Kham. Most of the attractions are within walking
distance which is why it is a pleasure discovering this heritage
town with its ancient buildings and mansions of the French colonial
era as well as a number of Wats, some in need of urgent
restoration.
Besides surrounding hills and forests, which add a touch of
greenery, the town has lovely walks along the river bank where
people can enjoy the tranquil scenery. For those across the river,
motorboats are the only means of transport to commute to the town.
French influence is felt in the names of streets as well as the
buildings and mansions of the French colonial period.
Laos is a Buddhist country of the Theravada sect, as evidenced
by a number of Wats in the town. Monks are ordained early and they
remain celibate. They occupy a high status in society and people
bow when they pass by. They are more than willing to offer alms to
the monks and think it is their duty to do so.
Wat Xieng Thong, a ‘Golden City Temple’ near the
Mekong river, is the town’s most magnificent Buddhist temple.
Built by King Setthathirat in the 16th century the temple enjoyed
royal patronage until the monarchy was ousted in 1975. The Wat is
typical of Laos’ Luang Prabang architecture with impressive
curved roofs, dazzling paints and a ‘tree of life’
mosaic. Richly decorated wooden columns support a ceiling that
depicts ‘dharma wheel’ as enshrined in Buddhist legend.
A small entry fee is collected for ongoing restoration efforts.
Wat Mai Souvannaphoumaram, (Wat Mai) , is of recent origin.
Built in 1796, it was restored under the patronage of King
Manthaturath in 1821. It has an impressive five- tier roof and
bas-relief depicting scenes from daily life as well as scenes from
Buddhist legends. The front veranda has decorated columns and there
are gold relief panels on the door. It was once the residence of
the Sangakharat or Supreme Patriarch of the Lao Sangha.
There are other small and intricate Wats like the Wat
Banpakham.
The Royal Palace Museum is worth a visit for its exhibits
showcase local history. The entry fee is 15,000 kip (approximately
$1.5). Several religious objects and a collection of rare Buddhist
sculptures from Cambodia, India and Laos are also on display. The
pride of place belongs to exhibits connected with the monarchy
— the royal throne, elegant furniture used by royalty, the
king’s and queen’s rooms with all their finery,
weapons, dresses, gift items presented by several national leaders,
including Indian leaders. There are also fine paintings of some
royal members.
Phu Si is the hill that dominates the Luang Prabang skyline. It
is fairly easy to climb and gives a commanding view of the town,
the river and the surroundings. At the hilltop is a stupa, which
has railings around it and intricate umbrella decorations. There is
also a small cave temple, Wat Tham Phu Si. One can see the Luang
Prabang airstrip and planes landing and taking off.
The Nam Kham river can be seen clearly from this height, and
there are small temples dedicated to Buddha on the other side of
the hill.
The Prabang Phoutthai Awanh shrine houses a golden coloured
statue of a standing Buddha. Another shrine contains an idol of the
Buddha in a reclining posture. This side of the hill also has a
Buddha statue housed in a niche under a hooded Naga (serpent); this
depiction of Buddha is sacred to Buddhists. All these heritage
structures are in need of massive restoration efforts to restore
their past glory.
Entertainment
The traditional Lao dance has withstood the passage of time and
continues to be performed at the National Theatre. For an entry fee
of $8, one can enjoy a breathtaking Lao dance, both traditional as
well as folk. The dance usually depicts a scene from the Ramayana
or other legends native to Laos. The performance is marked by
powerful vocal music as well as traditional drums and string
instruments. The performers include men, women, boys and girls
dressed in beautiful Lao silk and elaborate headgear.
The folk dances are performed by tribal groups to accompaniment
of drums and string instruments.
Shopping Extravaganza
The main street becomes a shopping centre after dark and
hundreds of men and women set up tiny shops selling all sorts of
stuff. Bargaining is the norm, done in a friendly and cheerful
manner, with the language barrier overcome through the calculator.
They greet you cheerfully with a broad grin and
“Sabaai-Di”, which means
“Hello/Goodbye”.
A walk around the small town is like a voyage of discovery.
There is not much traffic. Motorbikes and bicycles are used
extensively and a few imported Japanese cars can also be seen. A
visit to the roadside market is an interesting experience. Vendors
sell familiar vegetables and fruits like tomatoes, beans, cabbage,
brinjal, and even phudina, coriander leaves and green chillies. Raw
tamarind and raw mangoes are favourite snacks!
However, the scene changes when you enter the meat market. You
might turn queasy seeing the dead bats with their legs tied and all
sorts of insects offered, raw or fried, as delicacies, as well as
varieties of fresh fish, pork and all types of meat. Rice is the
staple food while wheat is used for making bread and related bakery
products. Vegetarians, beware — even a harmless looking bun
could have some meat inside!
Laos is famous for its massages and foot massage is popular. The
Lao traditional massage costs 35,000 kip (about $3.6) per hour. A
half-day scenic trip to the waterfalls at Kuang Si, 29 km from
town, passes through forests, dangerous bridges and small tribal
villages. Water gushes down limestone formations into a series of
cool, turquoise-green pools. Getting to the limestone cave at the
base of the waterfalls involves a risky trek down the slopes.
There are forest areas earmarked for tiger and bear conservation
projects where poached animals are recovered and tenderly cared
for.
Short boat-rides on the broad river give visitors an idea of the
life of ordinary Laos people, whose very life depends on the Mekong
river.
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