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On January 1st, 1923 a classic was born. The Railway Hotel at Hua Hin was officially opened to wide acclaim (although its unique charms had been enjoyed by select guests from 26th October the previous year). A beautifully presented property in classic neocolonial/Italianate style, the original Railway Hotel boasted just 14 bedrooms over two floors and was soon recognised as the place to stay in the region. Run by the State Railway of Thailand (SRT), the hotel flourished due to its professional management, splendid cuisine and excellent facilities. It is perhaps enough to say that it became a regular stopover on the route of the Eastern and Oriental Express. It is equally to the hotel's credit that it continues to host guests from the same luxury train service to this day. Following the decline in Hua Hin's status as a tourist destination during the second half of this century, the Railway Hotel fell into disuse and disrepair. Then, in 1984, the French hotel group Sofitel/ACCOR recognised the (much extended) property's potential and started renovation work. This was completed in 1986 and the new "Sofitel Central" opened to equal acclaim as the original. And with good reason. The new hotel absolutely reeks of class. From the moment of arrival, visitors feel that they are in the lap of luxury. Guests are whisked to their luxurious rooms where every modern amenity is standard, but the accommodation retains a classic "old-world" feel. Highly polished hardwood floors, wood panelled ceilings and luxurious bathrooms ooze charm and class. The rooms are well shielded from the noonday glare, with balconies overlooking luxuriant, mature tropical foliage manicured to perfection. Open the balcony doors and relax to the sound of gurgling fountains followed by a frog chorus at dusk, fluttering butterflies (from the hotel's own butterfly farm) swooping by and imagine a world a la Somerset Maugham. The 15-hectare grounds of the hotel are a sight to behold. Topiary masterpieces abound, with a huge elephant taking pride of place. Nooks and corners of the gardens reveal a giant chess board, a topiary maze, a putting green and other such innocent attractions. More modern facilities include two beautifully appointed swimming pools, a health spa and fitness centre, together with three restaurants offering a variety of excellently prepared cuisines, two bars &emdash; including the Elephant bar, a classic cocktail venue - and a rather disappointing nightclub, Satchmo (although we have heard that this is due for redevelopment soon). The Sofitel Central exudes all of the class and professionalism usually associated with a bygone era. It is very easy to forget where you are and, in this correspondent's case, to stay for far longer than anticipated - such is the charm of the place.
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