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ACCOMMODATION
Don't expect the best in first-class hotel accommodation in Laos. As elsewhere, you tend to get what you pay for, and hotel prices in Laos are not high. The country is only slowly opening to the rest of the world, and its tourism industry is still in its infancy. That said, there are pockets of luxury in Laos, and most major towns and cities have at least one or two first-class operations.
In the capital, Vientiane, a couple of truly international-standard operations exist, offering travellers a comprehensive range of facilities including business centre, pool, gym etc. Levels of service are generally high, although again, the learning curve in Laos is steep after years of communist isolation.
Mid-range hotels and guesthouses abound in Laos and most are of a generally acceptable quality. Prices range from around US$5-10 for pretty basic rooms in a guesthouse, to over US$25 for better standard rooms in decent buildings, often restored (or semi-restored) French colonial-style villas. At the bottom end, around US$2-5 will buy you a very basic room in a guesthouse or a thatch bungalow. At this level of accommodation, don't expect private bathroom or any amenities aside from perhaps a very basic dining room or cafe.
BASICS
The Lao People's Democratic Republic is located at the centre of the Mekong region, and is the only nation to share a border with all other countries in the region with Vietnam to the east, Cambodia to the south, Thailand to the west, and Myanmar and China's Yunnan province to the north.
Laos is mountainous, and forest covers around 40 percent of the country. The Mekong is a lifeline in this landlocked nation, providing a major travel highway and a rich source of food. The river also irrigates the country's paddy and other agriculture, and its massive force provides the power for hydroelectricity, much of which is exported to neighbouring Thailand.
The sleepy backwater of Laos has often found itself embroiled at the centre of international events. Historically, the country has been subject to incursions from both its Vietnamese and Siamese (Thai) neighbours, both of whom have annexed parts of the country over history.
The French incorporated the country in to French Indochina in the 19th century. Laos eventually won independence from its colonial masters in 1949, although foreign interference in the country's affairs continued for some years to come.
The French have left their mark on Laos, with some beautiful colonial buildings, abundant coffee drinking (and cultivation), and excellent bread available freshly baked in most markets.
Laos was unfortunately much abused by both sides during the American-Vietnamese war in the 1970s, with huge quantities of bombs dropped on the country by US bombers returning to base in Thailand following sorties over northern Vietnam. The Vietnamese meanwhile ran supplies from the north to southern Vietnam along the Ho Chi Minh Trail which snaked in and out of Laos, and was again targeted by the US-backed forces for attrition as a result.
Laos also found itself embroiled in a secret, CIA-sponsored action, during which the Americans unsuccessfully sponsored the Hmong people in their struggle against the Pathet Lao revolutionaries.
After the revolution in 1975, Laos went into a period of isolation from which it is only now slowly emerging. Until around a decade ago, few travellers made their way into Laos. The cost of a visa was prohibitive and facilities were basic in the extreme.
Since the early '90s, while starting to encourage economic reform and private enterprise, Laos has also opened up to travel and is promoting itself as a new tourist destination. Travel to the country is therefore exciting and extremely rewarding, but can at times be frustrating as the Lao infrastructure struggles to cope with the ever-increasing numbers of visitors.
BUSINESS & BANKING
Banking hours run from 8.30am to 4.00pm Monday to Friday. Exchange kiosks - when available - are open longer hours. Business hours tend to be similar, although a siesta is often taken - possibly a legacy of the French, possibly just a reflection if the laid-back attitude of most of the population. Shops also often close in the afternoons, and most stay open relatively late into the evening (around 8.00pm).
CLIMATE
Laos ranges from tropical to sub-tropical, and temperatures vary accordingly between north and south as well from season to season. The best time to travel is from November to February/March when the weather is dry and warm without being too hot. It can however get quite chilly in the north of the country (and elsewhere at night) during these months.
From March things start to warm up significantly and peak in April/May, just before the rains come to signal the beginning of the wet season which runs to mid-October. Laos can be uncomfortably humid at this time. With the tropical downpours many roads in Laos become impassable and travel is best avoided during the rainy season. Slightly lower rainfall occurs in the north of the country and as a result, Vientiane tends to be wetter than Luang Prabang.
Month
Max. Temp.
Rainfall (mm)
Month
Min. Temp.
Rainfall (mm)
January
28-30 C
5-15
July
31-32 C
230-270
February
30-32 C
15-20
August
31-32 C
290-300
March
33-34 C
30-40
September
31-33 C
165-300
April
34-36 C
100-110
October
30-32 C
80-110
May
32-35 C
165-270
November
29-30 C
15-30
June
32-34 C
155-300
December
27-29 C
5-15
COMMUNICATIONS
The international prefix for Laos is: 856 + city code (Vientiane 021, Luang Prabang 071, Pakse 031).
The telephone system in Laos is fine in major towns and cities, but can be pretty basic (or nonexistent) in more remote areas. The more expensive hotels offer International Direct Dialing (IDD) and many also have fax facilities. If your hotel doesn't have IDD, the Post Office is the best place for placing calls.
Email is available at larger hotels, although many are reluctant to offer actual Internet access. There are now a number of "cyber cafes" in larger towns that cater to travellers wishing to check their email accounts.
CRIME AND DANGERS
The Lao people, with their laid back attitude to life, are on the whole very helpful and extremely friendly to visitors. A strong state and a Buddhist philosophy mean that crime against the person is very rare in the country, and theft etc. is also relatively small in scale. However, bear in mind that you stand out as a visitor, and that the annual wage for the average Lao is pitifully small. Extra care should be taken after dark.
Bandits still exist in some areas, most of which are off limits to travellers. Nevertheless, take extra care when travelling off the beaten track. Another problem in remote areas is unexploded ordinance left over from the war years. NEVER touch any scrap iron lying around in Laos.
In the past year or so there have also been reports of anti-government insurgencies in Hmong areas and there have even been bombings in Vientiane which have unfortunately targeted tourists in order to destabilise the country and frighten travellers away. It is always wise to check with a governmental travel advisory before you go. Check out the Elephant's travel advisory section for the latest details concerning the region.
Finally, as a foreigner, expect to pay a little more than the locals for the same item or service. While this practice is not exactly criminal, it can be annoying after a while. However, always bear in mind that low annual wage, and it starts to seem a little more acceptable. All in all, as a visitor you are a target, so take care but don't let worry ruin your trip.
CUISINE & DINING
Dining out in Laos can be described as playing with fire. Lao food is hot, hot, hot. Often compared to Thai cuisine which it closely resembles in many ways, traditional Lao cuisine makes good use of the chili, along with many other fragrant herbs and spices. Lao dishes are usually eaten with the hands along with balls of sticky rice. Fish is the staple of Lao cuisine, but all kinds of meat are eaten as well, and Laos' s Chinese and Vietnamese neighbours have both made their mark on the nation's dining tables. So have the French, who introduced cheese, bread, pate and pastries to Laos, as well as coffee, wine and beer.
Eating out is cheap in Laos, and restaurants are plentiful in major towns at least. Outside of the main tourist centres however, the quantity and quality of dining options declines rapidly. Street stalls are a common site all over Laos serving traditional staples to the populace. These are usually pretty safe to eat from, but check for cleanliness before purchasing.
Restaurants vary in quality and size from tiny "hole-in-the-wall" noodle stalls to cafes with some western dishes to first-class French and international restaurants in big hotels. Many restaurants are owned or operated by foreigners, notably French. Other foreign cuisines including Italian and Indian are available in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, and Thai cuisine is also well represented.
Restaurant listings for Vientiane, Luang Prabang and Pakse can be accessed from the city sections of ElephantGuide.com
ETIQUETTE
"Take it easy" is the best advice for visitors to Laos. The Lao clock operates differently to its Western counterpart, and time is generally elastic. Try not to let this aspect of the Lao character upset you - it's much better just to go with the flow. Don't expect anything to happen quickly or to happen on time, and you'll enjoy your time in Laos all the more.
The Laos themselves are a gracious bunch of people and welcome foreigners with a friendly smile. As in Thailand, Buddhism is a major part of Lao life, especially in the lowlands along the Mekong basin. A small understanding of Buddhist thinking can go a long way towards bridging the cultural gap in Laos.
Laos, again like their Thai neighbours, are a generally conservative people. Modest dress is appreciated - long trousers or skirts are preferable to shorts or miniskirts. This need not be taken to extremes, but it can be useful when dealing with authority, and when visiting monasteries or other holy sites in Laos, be sure always to dress appropriately. Shoes should be removed when entering a monastery, and also when visiting Laos at home.
As in Thailand, the feet are considered to be the lowest (spiritually as well as physically) part of the body and pointing with the feet is taboo. Also, the head is considered sacred and should never be touched. Women should never touch monks, or hand offerings to them directly - take care to avoid this taboo if giving alms to monks on their early morning rounds.
Finally, be prepared to smile. The Laos are seemingly always smiling and a happy face will help break the ice in social situations, and can often assist when dealing with the Lao bureaucracy.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
BY AIR - The best and most common way visitors travel to Laos is by air from Bangkok to Vientiane, or from Chiang Mai to Luang Prabang or Vientiane. Airlines operating between Thailand and Laos include Lao Aviation, Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways. Flights are also available from Hanoi to Vientiane on Lao Aviation and Vietnam Airlines (c.US$175). From Cambodia, Royal Air Cambodge flies direct from Phnom Penh to Vientiane via Pakse (c.US$150). Lao Aviation also flies between Vientiane and Kunming in China's Yunnan province. Journey time is about three hours.
Link to Airline Listings
BY TRAIN - From Bangkok to Nongkai (Travel is overnight from Bangkok. At the border, early in the morning, travellers must alight and take a taxi to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge to cross into Laos).
BY ROAD - It is possible to enter Laos by road from Thailand, Vietnam and China. Care should be taken with documentation when crossing from Vietnam and China, and border crossings should not be attempted from Myanmar or Cambodia.
HEALTH
With life expectancy barely reaching the mid-fifties, Laos is obviously not among the healthiest of nations. Hygiene is not a major priority in the country, and medical care is generally of a pretty low standard. Most visitors will succumb at some stage to intestinal problems and diarrhoea. The best way to combat these is to watch what you eat and drink, avoiding uncooked meats and raw vegetables etc.
Vaccinations recommended for travel to Laos include the following: HEPATITIS A & B, TETANUS, TYPHUS, POLIO, RABIES and JAPANESE ENCEPHALITIS.
Malaria is also common in Laos, and precautions should be taken accordingly, including the use of a mosquito-net and insect repellent. Prophylactic anti-malarial tablets can also be used if appropriate - consult your doctor before using these. In addition to malaria and Japanese encephalitis, dengue fever is also prevalent in Laos, especially during the wet season (May-October), and similar precautions should be taken to avoid this mosquito-borne disease.
During the hot season (January-April) beware of the hot sun. Sunburn is best avoided by staying out of direct sunlight, especially at the hottest time of the day. However, if you must venture out into the sun, use a high-factor sun block. A hat will also help guard against heatstroke. Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration.
Contaminated water is a major cause of sickness in Laos and should be avoided at all times. Bottled water is widely available and cheap, but check that the seal is intact before purchasing.
Finally, with prostitution on the rise in Laos, visitors should be aware that sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) are prevalent in the country. AIDS is also on the rise. As elsewhere, abstinence is the only surefire way to avoid contracting STDs but the use of a reliable condom (brought from home as the local variety imported from Thailand can be defective) will significantly reduce risk.
LEISURE & ENTERTAINMENT
Laos is not known for its active pastimes, nor for its vibrant nightlife. Leisure time tends to be spent relaxing, perhaps at a café or bar, or sight seeing, taking in the spectacular temples and other architectural and historic sights of the country.
Another popular leisure activity with visitors to Laos is shopping (see below). Massage is another option for the weary traveller, and Laos is famous for the traditional art of massage.
Cafes and bars are useful meeting points, and in the early evening, it's hard to beat a cold beer while relaxing at a riverside bar watching the sunset. Don't expect too much entertainment later in the evening however.
Nightclubs do exist, but most would not be recognisable as such to western visitors. Many are outdoor affairs, and music is often live - a weird mixture of western pop and traditional Lao. Cultural shows are a favourite with guests at the more expensive and tour orientated hotels.
MEDIA
Laos boasts just one English-language newspaper, the Vientiane Times, which reflects the government line and is somewhat circumspect in its reporting style. The paper is also available on the web (see links below). Thailand's Bangkok Post is widely available in urban areas and is pretty strong on regional coverage. Other regional magazines available in Laos include the Far Eastern Economic Review and international magazines and newspapers including the International Herald Tribune and Asia Wall Street Journal are also available in major hotels etc.
MONEY MATTERS
The Lao currency is the New Kip (NK). Notes are available in 5000, 2000, 1000, 500, 100, 50 NK denominations. The US dollar and Thai baht are also widely accepted, and often preferred over the national currency. A black-market exists in Laos, and exchange rates are often significantly better than the official rate. However, beware of scams when changing money on the black market - gold shops are often the best bet for unofficial currency exchange.
Travellers' cheques can be exchanged in banks in the capital Vientiane and other major cities, but can be difficult to cash outside these areas. Credit cards are growing in their acceptance, mostly in major hotels and more expensive restaurants in major cities and towns. However, as in many other Mekong nations, CASH IS KING. Make sure you take plenty of US dollars and Thai baht. Other currencies will not be widely accepted, even at banks.
PEOPLE
The population of Laos stands at 5.5 million (est. July 2000), with one of the lowest population densities in southeast Asia at around 24 people per square km. Annual population growth is estimated at 2.5% and around 45% of the total population is aged under 15 years old, making Laos a very young nation indeed. Life expectancy is about 55 years.
The Lao population is split into several ethnic groups, with the Lao Loam being the largest, representing 68 percent of the total. The Lao Loan occupy the lowlands which incorporate the capital Vientiane and other major cities along the Mekong river.
The next largest group is the Lao Theung, or upland Lao (22%), followed by the Lao Soung, highland Lao (9%), which incorporates many of the county's ethnic minority groups including Hmong and Yeo. There is also a small (one percent) group of ethnic Chinese/Vietnamese origin.
The main religion of the Lao people is Buddhism, which is practiced to some extent by around 60 percent of the population. The Lao government made Buddhism the state religion in 1999, giving Laos the distinction of being the only officially communist state with a nationally recognised religion. Other faiths and beliefs, notably animist and some catholic, make up the other 40 percent.
The official language is Lao, while some French and English is spoken in the cities. A variety of ethnic tribal languages is also spoken.
RECOMMENDED READING
Guidebooks on Laos include the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet among others. These two books are generally considered to be the best available. Both of these books (and many others) can be purchased on-line through Amazon.com from this site.
Generally, foreign-language books are difficult to find in Laos, and are very expensive when available. It is best to bring any reading matter from home. For books on Laos and its history and culture, Bangkok bookshops have a good selection, in particular Asia Books
RED TAPE
All travellers to Laos (apart from Thai nationals) require a visa. A 15-day visa can sometimes be issued on arrival for a payment of US$30, but this service is often suspended and is therefore unreliable. Much better therefore to obtain your visa in advance.
A 15- or 30-day visa can usually be processed within 48 hours at the Lao embassies in Bangkok and Hanoi, and both cost (in Thailand) THB 750 (for UK, Australia and New Zealand nationals), THB 880 (US citizens) and THB 1050 (Canadians).
Travel agents in Bangkok and elsewhere in Thailand will obtain a visa on your behalf for a fee of around THB 300-500. Prices for visas issued in Hanoi run to around US$25-35.
Visas can usually be extended relatively easily in Laos, and prices vary according to where and for how long the visa is extended. Expect to pay around US$ 3 per day. Overstays are generally charged at US$ 5 per day.
Transit visas are also available in Hanoi and from the Lao consulate in Kunming, and are valid for 10 days for travellers using Vientiane as a stopover on the way to Bangkok.
Customs limits are 500 cigarettes and one litre of spirits per person. As with Vietnam, customs declarations must be completed along with your arrival form, but these are rarely checked in Laos, although it is best to hang on to it for departure. Any amount of foreign currency can be taken into Laos.
Link to Embassy/Consulate Listings
SHOPPING
Beware - Laos is a shoppers' paradise, so make sure you have plenty of spare space in your luggage. Handmade goods represent probably the best value in Laos, as labour is cheap while remarkably skillful.
Markets are held just about everywhere in Laos, and all manner of goods are available. For those not keen on haggling and getting down-and-dirty in the marketplace, souvenir and craft shops abound, although expect to pay more.
Textiles are a favourite purchase of many visitors, with beautiful designs from all over the country. Beware of fake "ageing" of some textiles - new fabrics can be had for just a few dollars while real antiques can command prices in the hundreds. With the new levels of interest in Lao weaving, traditional techniques are being revive, sometimes sponsored by international groups or individuals who help promote the textiles in the international market.
Silver is another bargain in Laos, with bold ethnic designs from hill tribe villages and antique utensils most commonly available in markets and shops. Other antiques include Buddha statues (check the provenance before purchase and beware of the ban on export of all images of the Buddha from Laos) and opium paraphernalia including pipes and weights.
Old stamps, coins and bank notes are another bargain widely available in Laos, and all make good value souvenirs, as do royalist paraphernalia including buttons, badges of rank and medals associated with the former Lao monarchy.
Finally, rattan, wicker, bamboo and woodwork make great souvenirs or gifts. Baskets are a favourite purchase, with the backpack-like woven variety proving especially popular with visitors to the country.
STATISTICS
Country Size
236,800 square kilometres
Currency
New Kip (NK)
GDP
US$1,300 (est. 1999)
Government Type
Communist state
Official Language
Lao
Official Name
Lao People's Democratic Republic
Population
5.5 million (est. July 2000)
More detailed statistics and information on Laos can be accessed at Mekong Research
TRANSPORT AND TRAVEL
The Lao transport system is very underdeveloped, so be prepared for long delays and unreliable departure times when travelling throughout the country. In the wet season, entire roads can be washed away, and during the dry season, river transport can be patchy as water levels fall dramatically.
The country has only around 10,000 km of paved roads, and most of these only just qualify for the term. There is no railway system in Laos, and many locals rely mainly on the Mekong and its tributaries for day-to-day transportation of goods and themselves.
Buses are available and are becoming more common (and better equipped) as the road system improves. There are a couple of privately operated express bus services operating between Vientiane and other major towns/cities - Angkham Bus Company (021-424 848) and Senesabay (021-218 052). Both these services operate air-conditioned vehicles.
River travel is probably the best - and certainly the most interesting - way to get about in Laos. There are two main types of boat available for river travel. Slow boats which run the Mekong between Vientiane and Luang Prabang for example, carry just about anything. They take their time and don't appear to operate to any discernible timetable. many passengers opt to sit out on the roof of these vessels, but women should stay below as their presence up top is considered bad luck. Beware of travelling on severely overloaded vessels as there is a real risk of sinking.
Speedboats represent the adventurous side of river travel in Laos. Travel on these very fast craft is more expensive than on their plodding cousins, and comfort is not a strong point with the limited space being shared by eight passengers. Crash helmets are provided, and are useful mainly for shielding the ears from the cacophony of the engine mounted at the rear of the craft. Ear plugs are recommended to further reduce the noise level. Life jackets are also often available - ask for one if possible as accidents do occur.
Finally, air travel is a popular and relatively cheap option internally. However, beware that many embassies advise their nationals not to fly due to safety concerns. Lao Aviation operates all domestic routes using a mixture of old Soviet-era and Chinese-built machines together with a single modern Fokker ATR 72 which is generally accepted to be the safer option when available. Tickets should be purchased in advance and must be paid for in US dollars. Departure times tend to be indicative rather than exact, and overbooking is common so be sure to reconfirm bookings prior to departure.
TRAVEL INFORMATION & BOOKINGS
Laos is significantly lacking in the tourism and travel promotion department. The best bet for information is private tour operators specialising in the country or region. Regionally, two of the best companies are Diethelm and Exotissimo of Thailand and Vietnam respectively. Both have useful web sites and can assist with bookings for both individual and group travel.
LINKS
For general information on Laos, try LaoNet (www.global.lao.net) which has a useful library and good links to other sites of interest.
The Lao Embassy in the US (www.laoembassy.com) maintains a site with up to date visa information and other useful content.
Mekong Express (www.mekongexpress.com) also has a decent section with useful information on the country. For country-specific news, go to the on-line Vientiane Times (www.vientianetimes.com) which should not be confused with the in-country, English-language newspaper.
More in-depth country intelligence can be seen at Mekong Research (www.mekongresearch.com), although much of the information on this site is only available to subscribers.
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