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ACCOMMODATION

Just a few years ago, hotel accommodation in Vietnam was limited to a range of medium-budget "mini hotels" or larger, slightly more luxurious three-star establishments catering to a predominantly Asian clientele. The alternative was Soviet-era Government guesthouses owned and run by the state - a daunting proposition for many an early traveller to Vietnam. Hanoi was lucky enough to have the lovingly restored (but hugely expensive) five-star Sofitel Metropole, but that was about it for luxury hotel accommodation in the capital. Saigon had the floating hotel, and the New World Hotel, Vietnam's only real "international standard" hotel.

During the mid- to late-nineties, several new five-star hotel complexes opened their doors in the capital and in Saigon, adding over 2500 rooms to an already crowded market. The predictable result was a severe oversupply of hotel rooms - a boon to consumers who have been able to take advantage of heavily discounted prices as occupancy rates dropped to as low as 20 per cent. Occupancies have recovered somewhat lately, although room rates remain very keen.

With competition as stiff as it is, first-class accommodation in Vietnam is refreshingly good value with five-star rooms available for significantly less than US$100 per night with patient negotiation. Cheaper establishments offer rooms at around US$40-80 per night.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) has always been a couple of steps ahead of the Hanoi in terms of hotel accommodation. The city is home to some great hotels, many legacies of French colonial times, along with several more modern operations left behind following the departure of the Americans in the early 1970s. Following the introduction of Doi Moi, many of these older buildings have been tastefully renovated or even completely rebuilt.

As elsewhere in the region, serviced apartments are a viable option for longer staying guests, and these are available on a monthly, weekly or even daily basis in Hanoi and Saigon. Mid-range hotels also abound in both cities, and the ubiquitous mini-hotel provides shelter for many visitors for around $10 to $25 per night. Cheaper "backpacker" accommodation abounds in most tourist destinations.

Elsewhere around the country, development has been piecemeal. For example, from 1996 to 1998, a number of world-class resorts opened their doors for business in Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and Danang. In the same period, development of a chain of boutique tourist hotels owned and operated by the Victoria group opened in some of the country's more remote destinations including Sapa, Can Tho, and elsewhere. But Danang still lacks a real international-standard, five star business hotel (although the luxury Furama Resort is a reasonably-priced and well-run alternative), as does Hue. Dalat meanwhile is home to the beautiful and lovingly restored Sofitel Dalat Palace.

Reservations are recommended at higher end hotels, and are often necessary elsewhere during high-season (September to December and June/July). The level of luxury depends pretty much on the price you're willing to pay, although bargains do exist in some cities. That said, wherever you travel in Vietnam these days, you should be able to find accommodation of a reasonable standard without breaking the bank.

BASICS

Vietnam's land area cover approximately 332,000 square kilometres bordered to the east by the South China Sea (or Southern Sea as the Vietnamese would have it) and to the west by Laos and Cambodia in the South. To the north lies China. The country is effectively shaped like a set of weights, with a thin ribbon of land running between the Annamite mountains to the west, and the coast to the east, connecting the fertile plains of the Red River delta in the north and the Mekong delta in the south. The northern and southern delta regions are extremely fertile while the central highlands and coastal plains are somewhat barren in comparison.

The population runs to around 80 million inhabitants, most of whom live in the countryside and work the land. Urban centres have grown rapidly as the country opened up to foreign investment, and Saigon is now almost indistinguishable from any other major Asian metropolis.

The area's history dates back as far as 300,000 years, although the state of Vietnam can more realistically trace its roots to the founding of the Hung dynasty around 4,000 years ago in a country called Van Lang. A succession of various dynasties followed this founding, and Vietnam's system of government became closely modeled on the Chinese Imperial system, as Vietnam was often a tributary state to its vast northern neighbour.

Modern Vietnam really only came into existence with the arrival of the French colonists in the mid-nineteenth century. They divided the country into three separate regions - Annam in the south, central Cochin and Tonkin in the north. They effectively ruled the country through their governors and via the Emperor (in reality just a puppet of the colonial power) until they relinquished control following the defeat of their armed forces by the Viet Minh at Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

The Geneva Accords followed, and the country was divided with Ho Chi Minh and the Vietnamese Communist Party governing northern Vietnam above the 17th parallel, and southern Vietnam being run by pro-western governments. The American involvement in Vietnam dates from around this time, and the second Indochina War (or American War) followed, ending with the defeat of the south by the northern communists in 1975 and reunification of the country the following year.

A period of isolation followed for over a decade as Vietnam closed its doors to the outside world (with the exception of the Soviets and Chinese) and aid and trade embargoes enforced by the United States. Then, in 1986, a new economic system was introduced encouraging private trade and foreign investment. This was called Doi Moi, effectively the Vietnamese equivalent of the USSR's glasnost. Almost a decade later, in 1994, the US lifted its trade embargo, and established formal diplomatic relations with Vietnam the following year.

All these factors have contributed significantly to Vietnam's recent economic development, a quite staggering development when one pauses to consider the country's history of abuse and misrule. Finally, in late 2001, the US and Vietnam signed a bilateral trade agreement which effectively allows Vietnamese imports to the US (and vice-versa) favourable rates of duty, thus encouraging even more trade between the two countries.

BUSINESS & BANKING

Business hours in Vietnam run from 8.00am to 4:30pm Monday to Friday, and 8.00am to noon on Saturdays. Banks open at 8:30am and close at 4:30pm. A legacy of French colonial times is the long two-hour lunch break enjoyed by most businesses. In fact , don't even try to get anything done at a government office between 11.30 am and 1.30pm - you'll just become frustrated. Banks keep similar hours, although they do not officially close for lunch.

The Vietnamese currency is the dong, and it is loosely pegged to the dollar. Current rates of exchange are c.15,750 dong/US$1. Although trade is officially conducted in dong, most establishments will happily accept dollars instead, and some positively encourage this practice.

Exchange kiosks are extremely rare in Vietnam, basically limited to the international airports a few major banks in major towns. US dollars can be easily exchanged in banks, although other currencies can prove problematic. Dollars can also be exchanged for dong in most gold shops, and on the street, though the latter is not advisable as customers are often cheated. Hotels will usually accept dollars or dong in payment, but watch out for punitive exchange rates in some establishments.

Shops are generally open from around 9.00am until around 9.30pm in major towns, closing earlier in remoter spots. Tourist attractions usually open around the same time, and close between 4.00 and 6.00pm. Most are closed on Mondays, a few on Tuesdays.

CLIMATE

Vietnam's climate ranges from sub-tropical in the north to tropical in the centre and south. In Hanoi and the north of the country, the four seasons are quite distinct: cold, grey and damp winter from January to March, rainy spring from April to June, very hot and humid summer in July and August, and refreshing autumn from September to December. This last is by far the best time to visit as the weather tends to be clear, dry and warm during the day, cooling slightly in the evenings. Rain is a problem from May/June to September, and parts of Hanoi often flood.

In the centre and south, the rainy season runs from May to October, dry and slightly cooler weather can be enjoyed from November to February, and then the hot season, with its attendant humidity which runs from March to July.

Tropical storms tend to hit the central coast during the rainy season (May to October), and the Mekong Delta often floods at this time. Dalat enjoys a climate all of its own, with an almost Alpine feel at times. Generally the city is around ten degrees centigrade cooler than the surrounding country, and it can actually get quite chilly at night, especially during the winter. 

COMMUNICATIONS

The international prefix for Vietnam is: 84 + city code (Hanoi 04, Saigon 08, Nha Trang 058, Dalat 063, Hoi An 0510, Danang 0511, Hue 054). Mobile coverage is good, and the local operators are starting to operate reciprocal arrangements with other international mobile companies.

The Vietnamese telephone system has been radically overhauled and expanded over the last decade, and is of generally good quality, especially in urban areas. International call charges are however among the highest in the world, despite having been lowered slightly quite recently. Most hotels have International Direct Dialing (IDD) and more up-market operators provide fax facilities, sometimes even in-room. Be warned - all will add a hefty surcharge to your bill. There are however a couple of cheap rate services. Dial 171 before making international calls to bring rates down to around US$1.30 per minute to a range of countries (around 50 at present).

Email is available in many hotels and there are plenty of cyber cafes in major towns and tourist destinations. Access can be painfully slow, although rates are keen at around 100-300 VND (about one to two US cents) per minute.

CRIME AND DANGERS

Crime against the person is not generally a problem in Vietnam - the penalties for harming a foreigner for local Vietnamese are severe. The last known fatal attack occurred in 1996, and the culprit was arrested, tried and executed in a very short time. However, as anywhere else, it pays to take care, especially after dark. Cyclos, that ubiquitous form of transport in Saigon and Hanoi, should never be taken after dark, and care should also be taken when taking a motorcycle taxi at these times.

Theft is unfortunately a bigger - and growing - problem in Vietnam. It should always be borne in mind that the average Vietnamese is dirt poor by western standards, and foreigners represent unimaginable wealth to many. Caution should be exercised in urban areas, as drive-by bag or jewellery snatch and grabs are becoming increasingly common. Also, take care not to leave valuables lying around, especially small but expensive items such as cameras or mobile phones - these are favourite targets for sneak thieves operating in bars and restaurants.

Watch out or phoney taxis, especially in Saigon, and always insist on a meter - it's the law. When taking a cyclo or motorcycle taxi, always agree on the fare before departure to avoid ugly scenes at journey's end. When possible, try to arrange for your hotel to negotiate with cyclo drivers.

The countryside is generally safe, although border areas are best avoided. Shakedowns do occasionally occur courtesy of corrupt officials, but these are thankfully becoming less and less common. Begging is problem, especially in downtown Saigon, and visitors can be sure that they will be hassled at some point or other during their stay in Vietnam. Bear in mind that most child beggars are in fact just a part of sophisticated criminal gangs and actually receive little or none of your largesse. Prostitution is also a growing problem in major towns, and proposals from the back of a motorcycle should be studiously ignored.

Scams do occur in Vietnam but are generally not as sophisticated as in Thailand for example, but do beware of offers that seem to good to be true - they will prove to be just that. Remember that as a visitor you are more likely to be a target for crime, especially scams, so take care without letting excessive worry ruin your trip.

A final word of warning - DO NOT attempt to carry proscribed drugs and narcotics into, out of or around Vietnam. Narcotics smuggling is taken very seriously here, and is punishable by death.

CUISINE & DINING

One of the great pleasures of any journey in Vietnam is the rich and varied cuisine of the country. The northern staple is noodles, as is evinced by the huge numbers of pho shops and stalls all over town. Pho is a noodle soup usually augmented with either chicken (ga) or beef (bo). It is served from dawn until well after midnight and is indulged in by young and old, rich and poor. A visit to a good pho shop is recommended for any visitor to Hanoi.

Central Vietnam is famous for "Royal" or "Imperial" cuisine, and is also well represented in Saigon. Southern dishes tend to be somewhat hotter and spicier than elsewhere in the country, and fried foods are more common than boiled/steamed dishes.

Rice is of course a staple throughout the country, and almost every meal will be accompanied with a large bowl of steaming boiled rice. Fish is another staple, and seafood restaurants abound in Saigon, serving beautifully prepared dishes.

Other local delicacies run to snake, goat, jungle game and, perhaps most famously, dog. These can be sampled at local restaurants throughout the country although most are not suitable for the squeamish.

The lingering colonial influence of of the French is still very much apparent in the Vietnam's dining options, but as the country has opened up, so myriad foreign cuisines have infiltrated menus at many establishments. Pizzas and pasta, hamburgers and sizzling steaks, sushi and tempura, Chinese cuisine and Thai specialities - all are well represented at a range of restaurants throughout the country.

Finally, dining out in Vietnam is excellent value. From street side food stalls to Imperial dining with classical entertainment, top-end Chinese and Japanese restaurants to fine French cuisine, pizza and pasta to American and Tex-Mex menus, travellers cafes to local snack bars, the range of food available is wide and everyone should be able to find a venue to suit both taste and budget.

Restaurant listings around Vietnam can be accessed from the relevant destination channel on ElephantGuide.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Vietnam's entertainment scene is not as developed as Thailand's, and until recently the population had to make their own entertainment. However, as the country develops, so new attractions and diversions are opening up.

Cinemas tend to cater to a local clientele with movies usually dubbed (crudely) into Vietnamese and less than salubrious accommodations for the viewing public. Bowling is becoming increasingly popular in Vietnam, and there are at least two venues in Saigon and one in Hanoi for visitors to enjoy.

Major hotels will occasionally host "cultural shows" although these are nowhere near as common as in other regional countries. Traditional water puppetry can be witnessed in Hanoi, and both the capital and Saigon feature restaurants that provide traditional music and occasionally dance to accompany the food.

Bars and clubs are a relatively recent addition to Vietnam's entertainment scene, the first established in Hanoi and Saigon during the early nineties. These were often pretty basic affairs featuring a couple of tables, a fridge and a selection of imported spirits. Today's city bars are as sophisticated as anywhere in the world, and the range of drinks available as wide. Vietnamese authorities are currently closing most venues at midnight - apparently with no exceptions.

In Hanoi, Saigon and other major destinations, bars catering to foreigners are plentiful, but don't overlook the local scene. Vast beer halls catering to over a thousand customers at a time are dotted around the cities. Another experience not to be missed is bia hoi - literally "fresh beer" - a lager-type beer which is served the same day as it is brewed in vast beer gardens or hole-in-the-wall outlets. This is a great way to mix with everyday Vietnamese.

Other local brews include snake wine, rice wine and various other evil spirits designed to numb the senses. Beware when imbibing - the locals can be very forceful when take no prisoners when it comes to drinking games.

Beware also of cries of "tram van tram" or "100 per cent" which demands that you empty the contents of your glass in a kind of race with the person calling. The problem is that a group of five or ten Vietnamese will all want to "tram van tram" the foreigner - individually.

One favourite form of entertainment is karaoke which has unfortunately sprung up all over the country. Even in the remotest outpost of the Central Highlands it is often easier to find a karaoke bar than it is to locate a decent restaurant. In major towns care should be taken when visiting karaoke bars - many are merely a front for prostitution which is illegal - though very common - in Vietnam.

Finally, the club scene in Vietnam caters mainly to the locals although foreigners are always welcome. The exceptions to this rule are clubs such as Apocalypse Now which target travellers and foreign residents as their mainstream clientele. A few bars and clubs feature live music, some of which is of excellent quality.

Recently the authorities have been clamping down on what they perceive as "immorality", "cultural pollution" and "foreign influences", closing bars and clubs at midnight. The strict enforcement of this policy occasionally softens but can be revived at any time. Vietnam is not necessarily a destination for serious night-owls, although a few bars and clubs in major cities manage to stay open late in to the early hours.

Sources of information on Vietnam's entertainment scene include Pathfinder, The Guide magazine or Time Out, all published in English and containing useful listings and "What's On" information. Japanese visitors should look out for a small monthly guidebook called Sketch. Best of all, check out ElephantXpat.com's "What's On" sections for comprehensive information on what's happening around Vietnam.

ETIQUETTE

The Vietnamese are a relatively reserved people and confrontation is usually avoided, at least at a social level. Arguments do occur, certainly more often than in many other regional countries, but most visitors will not encounter much in the way of unpleasantness.

Confucianism plays a major role in the north and south of the country, with respect for elders and traditional values both incorporated into daily life. Buddhism also plays its part, especially in the south. Cultural misunderstandings therefore can and do occur, but most are resolved with a smile and good grace.

Given the country's tragic history, the Vietnamese could be said to have every right to view foreigners with suspicion or even hostility. However, all are made to feel welcome, and the various wars have been all but forgotten by most Vietnamese. That said, respect for the country's history is encouraged and expected.

Younger Vietnamese tend to eschew the more restrictive social orders, and are eagerly embracing new freedoms. However, what the authorities refer to as "cultural pollution" is also an issue that many Vietnamese, especially the older generation, are beginning to take more seriously.

The Vietnamese tend to dress smartly and relatively conservatively, especially for business meetings and other formal engagements. They also dress up for social occasions, however unimportant, and guests should take care not to offend by "dressing-down" for the occasion. Also, be sure to dress conservatively when visiting temples and historic monuments such as Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum and the tombs of the Hue emperors.

Finally, avoid political discussion. Vietnam remains a one-party state and while some are openly skeptical of their own government and leaders, the Vietnamese do not appreciate political lectures from foreigners.

GETTING AROUND

The domestic transport system in Vietnam is developing but still lacking in many significant areas.

Air travel is pretty comprehensive between major destinations, and foreigners now pay the same as their locals counterparts, making it a relatively cheap option although th elocal price has risen more than the "foriegn" price has dropped.

Rail travel is OK so long as you stick to 1st class or sleeper class, and prices have dropped so foreigners and locals pay the same fare. The rail system is not especially efficient or comfortable, but represents good value over log distances.

Bus transport is comprehensive and very good value. Major tour companies such as Sinh Cafe and T.M. Brothers offer very competitive "open tickets" which stop at all the major tourist destinations along the coast and up into Dalat etc. The cost is very low, and buses leave most destinations at least once a day. Journeys can be a little uncomfortable though.

Car hire is possible and is reasonably priced, although you must also hire a driver - and pay his costs - when travelling between provinces.

In town, getting around is easy and cheap. Cyclos are the traditional way to get about, but can be expensive and are often restricted from major boulevards and streets. Good fun though and should be tried at least once when visiting the country. Always agree the fare before you depart, and be prepared for occasional arguments on arrival at your destination.

Motorcycle taxis - honda om - are another convenient way to get about, especially for short trips and offer good value. Again, try to strike a deal before you go unless you know the proper rate for local expats.

Taxis are plentiful in major cities and towns, and are reasonably priced. Always ensure the driver uses his meter - some will claim it is broken or will try to strike a deal - if this is the case, get out and flag down another vehicle.

Motorcycle hire is easily arranged through most hotels and travel cafes etc. and a decent bike should cost around US$5 per day for short term hire, around VND 1,000,000 per month (US$65) for longer term rentals.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

BY AIR - Nearly all visitors arrive in Vietnam through one of the country's major international airports - Noi Bai in Hanoi, Tan Son Nhat in Saigon or Danang.

Daily flights to and from most destinations in Asia are offered by a whole range of major airlines. Other destinations are catered for at least weekly, and direct flights to and from the US are due to be inaugurated before long. The national airline is Vietnam Airlines.

BY TRAIN - It is possible to enter Vietnam from China by rail, but this is not an option for most travellers.

BY ROAD - Entry into Vietnam by road is currently restricted to travel between Cambodia or Laos and Vietnam.

BY SEA - A few cruise ships occasionally call at Saigon and Nha Trang and other coastal destinations.

HEALTH

Vietnam's hospital and health system leaves much to be desired, especially in remoter areas. Saigon and Hanoi however both have decent local hospitals and generally reasonable levels of health care. Foreign invested, managed and operated clinics, surgeries and even hospitals have opened in Hanoi, Saigon and Danang in recent years and offer excellent conditions and levels or care. However, they are also expensive, so insurance is an essential travel item.

Digestive and intestinal problems will likely affect most visitors, especially if traveling off the beaten track. The best way to combat these is to watch what you eat and drink, avoiding uncooked meats and raw vegetables etc. Also avoid food that looks as if it has been sitting around for a while. Very spicy foods are also best avoided until you become acclimatised to Vietnamese cuisine. Immodium or a similar drug will keep symptoms under control until the discomfort passes.

Vaccinations against HEPATITIS A & B, TETANUS, TYPHUS, POLIO, and RABIES are recommended by doctors, as is a jab against JAPANESE ENCYPHYLITIS, a nasty mosquito borne virus common in remote spots.

Malaria is not endemic in Vietnam, and most travellers will be safe if keeping to the coastal route. However, if travelling inland and in remoter areas of the country, precautions should be taken including the use of a mosquito-net and insect repellent. Prophylactic anti-malarial tablets can also be used if appropriate - consult your doctor before using these.

During hot weather and at all times along the coast, beware of the sun. Sunburn is best avoided by staying out of direct sunlight, especially at the hottest times of the day. However, if you must venture out into the sun, use a high-factor sun block. A hat will also help guard against heatstroke. Drink plenty of (bottled) water to avoid dehydration.

Contaminated water is a major cause of sickness in Vietnam and is easily avoided. Most hotels will provide drinking water in your room for tooth brushing etc. and bottled water is widely available and cheap. Check that the seal is intact before purchasing.

Finally, Vietnam is becoming increasingly associated with sex tourism, and prostitution is rife, especially in major cities. Accordingly, AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases (STDs) are prevalent throughout the country. Abstinence is the only surefire way to avoid contracting STDs although the use of a reliable condom (brought from home as the local brands can often prove defective) will significantly reduce risk.

LEISURE & RECREATION

Vietnam is not a major destination for sports enthusiasts. There is some diving, mainly in and around Nha Trang, and other watersports are available at coastal resorts including excellent wind and kite-surfing in Phan Theit / Mui Ne.

Golf is becoming increasingly popular, and Vietnam now boasts around nine or ten golf courses and clubs, including the excellent Dalat Palace Golf Club which offers playing conditions that are unique in Asia. Green fees and other costs tend to be higher in Vietnam than in many other Asian golf destinations.

Other leisure pursuits include tennis and squash, and most major hotels have well-equipped gyms and health clubs.

Sightseeing is also a major leisure activity, and Vietnam offers visitors a remarkable range of historic, cultural and scenic attractions to absorb during their stay. Museums in major cities are usually pretty informative although signage in English is often lacking.

Another popular leisure activity in Vietnam is shopping (see below). Indeed, many visitors from Japan merely arrive in Saigon, check in to their hotels and then shop for a week before returning home.

Finally, cafes and bars are useful meeting points, and after a hard day's sightseeing, relaxing with a cold beer and watching the world pass by is another favourite pastime for many visitors.

MEDIA

Vietnam boasts a few English-language publications, including two daily newspapers - the Vietnam News and the Saigon Times. For business and investment news, look out for the Vietnam Economic Times - a monthly magazine - and the Vietnam Investment Review - a weekly newspaper.

Foreign newspapers, including those from home, are available in bigger hotels and from street vendors in Saigon and Hanoi. The International Herald Tribune and Asia Wall Street Journal are widely available, as are international magazines including Time, Newsweek, the Far Eastern Economic Review and many other foreign magazines and newspapers.

For a look at waht's on and in-depth listings and reviews of restaurants, bars, shops, spas and more, pick up a copy of AsiaLife magazine, available free of charge throughout Saigon and at a few other selected destinations in the country. The Guide magazine, Pathfinder and Time Out also offer limited information as to what's on in the capital and Saigon, with somewhat arbitrary listings for destinations throughout the country. For Japanese visitors and residents we suggest you pick up a copy of Sketch magazine, and for Koreans, the Cyclo magazine. Both are available free of charge at leading Japanese & Korean venues around Saigon.

Web sites covering the country are numerous and range from the professional and useful to amateurish and useless. We suggest you stick with The Elephant, although other useful information on Vietnam can be found at Vietnam On-line (www.vietnam-online.com).

MONEY MATTERS

The Vietnamese currency is the dong (VND). Notes come in 100, 200, 500, 1,000, 5,000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, 100,000 and the new 500,000 dong denominations. There are also coins - another new departure - although the 200 dong coin is only worth around one US cent. Larger notes are available in "bearer bond" form from local banks - beware as these have an expiry date after which they cannot be redeemed. The currency is being slowly devalued against the US dollar which will currently buy around 16,200 dong.

The dong is a soft currency, so it cannot be exchanged outside the country - exceptions being Cambodia and border areas of Laos. Within Vietnam, US dollars can be easily exchanged in banks, although other currencies can sometimes prove problematic.

Exchange kiosks are extremely rare in Vietnam, basically limited to the international airports a few major banks in major towns. Dollars can also be exchanged for dong in most gold shops, and on the street, though the latter is not advisable as customers are often cheated. Hotels will usually accept dollars or dong in payment, but watch out for punitive exchange rates in some establishments.

Travellers' cheques can be exchanged in most banks and a few hotels, but cash in US dollars is favourite. Credit cards are generally accepted only in western-oriented hotels, shops and restaurants in larger cities, while cash machines (ATMs) are growing in number although they are currently limited to major cities and tourist destinations.

PEOPLE

Vietnam's population stands at around 80 million people, of which the great majority live in the countryside and engaged in agriculture. The rest live in major cities such as Saigon and Hanoi, and other cities and towns around the country.

Vietnam's principle religion is Buddhism, although most people do not practice on a strict or regular basis. There is also a sizable Catholic minority, mainly on the south of the country, and also a Muslim (Cham) population numbering around 2-3% of the population.

Most Vietnamese are extremely tolerant of strangers, although some suspicions remain, especially in outlying provinces where foreigners are still rare. However, the Vietnamese people also have a temper that is not easily assuaged when riled. It is best to avoid contentious situations, and where they do occur, try to retire with a smile and a shrug.

RECOMMENDED READING

There are several good guidebooks on Vietnam including Lonely Planet which publishes a guide to Vietnam, as do Rough Guide, Moon Travel Handbooks (recommended) and Footprint (also covering Laos and Cambodia). For business travellers and those relocating to Vietnam, Kupperard in London publishes the excellent Culture Shock: Vietnam, a guide to customs and etiquette in the country. These books (and many others) can be purchased on-line through Amazon.com from this site.

VNAT publishes a slim but useful booklet entitled: Vietnam - Explore the Legend. Embassies might be able to provide information relating to business and travel in Vietnam, but don't count on it.

Bookshops are rare and very limited in scope in Vietnam although there is a thriving pirate trade which becomes apparent in travellers' haunts as teams of hawkers tout their wares from cafe to cafe and table to table. There are also several secondhand bookshops in the main tourist destinations.

RED TAPE

Vietnam's red tape is notorious, although steps have been taken in recent years to reduce the burden the authorities place on the general population and visitors. Most nationalities entering Vietnam require a visa.

All visitors require a sponsor organisation in Vietnam. For a one-month tourist visa, this is usually VNAT or Hanoi Tourist, and the visa can be arranged by most travel agencies in three days. A "Visa on Arrival" policy has been in the pipeline for some time but as yet doesn't appear to have been implemented in any usefully operational way.

Tourist visas are generally valid for 30 days and can sometimes be extended in country (it depends on the policy in operation at the time) or converted to business visas etc. - for a price. Business visas are necessary if you intend to conduct any business at all, and a generally valid for three, six or twelve months.

Work permits are required for foreign workers in Vietnam, although some ignore this regulation - at their own risk.

On arrival, visitors must complete duplicate arrival and departure forms. A yellow duplicate form for customs must also be completed - KEEP THE YELLOW COPY - for departure or you will face a "fine".

Customs limits are 200 cigarettes and one litre of alcoholic beverage (including spirits) per person. Foreign currency in excess of US$7,000 (£4,500) in value must be declared on arrival. Be careful about carrying what the authorities refer to as "culturally offensive" items: These might include foreign video tapes/DVDs, any anti-government literature (this can be widely interpreted so it's best to play it safe), pornography, weapons and explosives.

SHOPPING

Vietnam has recently emerged as a major shopping destination and the country offers plenty of interest to "shopalolics". Artworks are a favourite purchase for many visitors, as are traditional handicrafts, unique and original designs in ceramics, shell, lacquer and wood, furniture and much more. Hoi An is good place to purchase pleasant pictures at reasonable prices, while Hanoi & Saigon offer some spectacular works of art at equally spectacular prices.

Clothes shopping is limited except in major cities where bargains are easy to find - Vietnam is a major manufacturing centre for western fashion labels, some of which find their way into the local market. Traditional clothing such as the Ao Dai is another favourite purchase for foreigners in Vietnam. Hoi An is a major centre for decent quality tailoring and off-the-peg designs.

Pirated CDs and DVDs are also easily purchased in Saigon and Hanoi at least (DVDs go for around a buck twenty per), and there is a roaring trade in photocopied books in all major tourist destinations.

Finally, bargaining is imperative in Vietnam when dealing with street sellers and in the market. Never accept the first price offered - try to get the seller down to around 40% of the asking price, and settle for perhaps a little more. It doesn't matter if you don't get the best price available - just so long as you are happy with what you pay. The best advice is to shop around, and remember that you can always return later or even the next day if necessary.

SIGHTSEEING

There's certainly plenty to see and do in Vietnam. The major cities of Hanoi and Saigon both have more than enough sightseeing and cultural diversions to last a month or longer. Museums, old buildings, markets, galleries, cultural shows etc. - there's plenty of choice and lots to do. Other major destinations also boast plenty of cultural sights to hold the visitor's interest.

In Hanoi a favourite area for many visitors is the Old Quarter, traditonally home to many of the city's traditional guilds and craftsmen catering to the Imperial Court, and now home to many tourist hotels, bars and restarurants. It's easy to lose a day or two just wandering around this pulsating marketplace and the teeming streets.

The north of the country, and the central highlands, are home to a range of minority groups - hill tribes etc. - all of which feature unique attributes and lifestyles which will be of interest to any student of anthropology, and most casual observers as well. Check out Dien Bien Phu where colonial France made its desperate last stand against General Giap's forces and Ho Chi Minh's struggle for independence in 1954.

Hue, the ancient Imperial capital, features many of the country's most important historical sights including the old Imperial Palace, mausoleums of many of the past emperors of Vietnam and the ever-beautiful Perfume River. Nearby lies the infamous DMZ - where many of the major battles of the Indochina wars were fought.

A little further south is Hoi An - home to a huge collection of interesting buildings, temples, clan houses and other sightseeing opportunities. Foreign influences are easily identifiable here, from Portuguese to Japanese and Chinese. The ancient town centre is a truly beautiful place to wander, almost perfectly preserved thanks to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the forward thinking of the local Peole's Committee. And the beach at Hoi An - so often overlooked in travel guides to Vietnam - is a glorious stretch of golden sand, the perfect place to relax after a busy day's sightseeing.

The beach resorts at Nha Trang, Phan Thiet, Danang and Phu Quoc all offer plenty to see and do, and leisure activities abound. Marine life can be explored through the country's major dive centres, most of which are centred in Nha Trang.

The Mekong Delta is another world when compared to the rest of Vietnam, with traditional lifestyles still very evident, and exciting markets, beautiful views and images all competing for attention as you travel the waterways.

In addition Vietnam boasts a diverse cultural history which is evident when visiting the nation's many temples and other places of worship. Chinese influences are obviously strong, but Japanese, Cham (Muslim) and Catholic influences are also prominent in many areas of the country.

Beautiful temples, ancient ruins, modern cities, deserted beaches, spectacular scenery, exciting festivals, traditional culture - Vietnam offers all this and more for the visitor, who will always be able to find something to satisfy when travelling this exciting country.

STATISTICS

Country Size: 331,115 square kilometres

Currency: Dong (VND)

Government Type: Communist One Party State

Official Language: Vietnamese

Official Name: Socialist Republic of Vietnam

Population: circa.80 million

More detailed statistics and information on Vietnam can be accessed at BBC Online

TRAVEL INFORMATION & BOOKINGS

Vietnam has several tourism promotional bodies - mainly Vietnam Tourism, Hanoi Tourist, and Saigon Tourist. These organisations are still developing their communication operations, although they have started to publish some useful literature in the past few years. Best check their websites, or enquire at embassies for any literature they might have to hand (don't expect too much).

LINKS

For more information on Vietnam, try Vietnam Online (www.vietnamonline.net) which has some useful information and links to other sites of interest. Another decent listings and information site is the online version of AsiaLife Saigon magazine at: www.saigoninsideout.com

Business information can be found through the British Business Group in Vietnam or the US equivalent, AMChamVietnam. Australians should check out the Australian-Business Group in Vietnam

For country-specific news, try the on-line version of the country's English-language newspaper: Vietnam News but don't expect too much in the way of information or speedy access times - this site is very slow. Otherwise, we suggest you check out the other regional media links elsewhere on ElephantGuide.com.